One of the Most Stunning Places on Earth: Bagan

The sun sets between the 2,000 temples of Bagan, casting a golden hue over the ancient kingdom and giving a shimmer to the Ayeyarwady river. This was our view each night during our stay at The Hotel @ Tharabar Gate. More than a place to rest our head, dip in the pool, take in a massage, and eat delicious meals, The Hotel @ Tharabar Gate’s incredible concierge was the key to accessing the best of Bagan.

This hotel is set in the best possible location within the Bagan Archaeological Zone (few hotels are even allowed in), surrounded by exquisite buildings from the first Burmese capital and a five minute walk to the “The Jewel of Bagan,” the Ananda Temple.

We got to our exquisite suite and it was decorated to Burmese perfection, adorned with hand-painted walls and overflowing with honeymoon treats. Flowers on the duvet, a custom cake, spirits to toast, and a note to welcome us. We kicked off our shoes, put on our slippers and went out on our private garden to make ourselves right at home.

The concierge had created a spectacular itinerary for us, starting with a horse cart tour of Old Bagan. The archaeological zone is 8×5 miles and packed with over 2,200 temples! The horse cart was not only romantic but the best way to get to the gems off the beaten path.

The abundance of 9th-13th-century buildings and the lack of people wandering between them made each exquisite structure feel like a treasure tucked away just for us.

Just around the corner from The Hotel is the Ananda temple, the holiest site in Bagan. It’s a stunning space with four massive gilded Buddhas facing in each cardinal direction, and a series of terraces leading to the umbrella-topped pagoda.

For sunset the hotel arranged a private river boat for us to enjoy the temple scenery and cocktail hour! So romantic!

Bagan is said to be one of the best places in the world to hot-air balloon…flying between 12th-century pagodas and hovering above their spires and domes, can you imagine? Sadly poor winds canceled our much-anticipated flight but a few days earlier we woke up to see the balloons dot the pink horizon from a temple terrace. TIP: If you want to take a balloon ride, book it for your first morning so if it gets canceled due to weather, you can reschedule. Eastern Safaris’ Balloons over Bagan is the main operator in town.

After biking to the temples for sunrise, we needed some R&R! We went back to The Hotel for a dip in the pool and delicious lunch in the tropical garden (one of two restaurants on site). The menu was impressive with a choice of Myanmar food, European, American, and Asian Cuisine.

Adding to our indulgence, we booked a Myanmar Traditional Massage at The Hotel Spa. It was heavenly and only $26 for a 1-hour massage…you’ve got to love honeymoons in Southeast Asia!

Sunset really is the magical hour in Bagan and the time when everyone scrambles up some very steep temple stairs for a good view of the plains. All the guidebooks say the best lookout is Shwesandaw Temple but to beat the crowds we went to the temple across the way and vowed to find our own secluded spot for the following day.

As the sun was setting we biked away from the river to the far western reaches of the Bagan Archaeological Zone. We asked a temple keeper where would be a good viewpoint nearby and next thing you know he was grabbing his keys to take us to the top of his pagoda for an epic private sunset spot!

Bagan is a place not easily forgotten. It’s not just the 2,000+ temples that make it so special but the peace you feel when you sit atop a secluded pagoda with the person you love.